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Increasing door height to fit tractor
Building codes probably apply, so a permit may be needed. We're pretty informal around and everybody knows the building inspector. When we wanted to build a deck, I just asked the inspector what designs he'd approve. He dug out a book and looked up various designs
That seemed like a pretty good way to figure out what works and also be pretty sure that it's going to pass inspection--quick consultation and all for the cost of a $10 permit. The design cost about half of what a building supply store computer thing designed. Some of the books the inspector referred did give details for various types of built-up compared to timber beams for various applications.
In our township, the municipality is responsible for any inspected structure the fails within a year or so, and there's no possible insurance complications. I figure that talking to our inspected saved us a bunch on time and building materials Seemed like a good deal all around.
I'm thinking that it'd be more common for a large garage door to be in a curtain rather than a loaded wall. If so, and there's room above the header, there are probably all sorts of design possibilities that might entirely substitute for a header. If you get stuck for a design and don't need a 10' door, posts could be installed inboard from the existing one to reduce the span (and therefore the header requirement). If your area gets snow and ice, I'd be careful about cutting the clearance too fine.
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Increasing door height to fit tractor
Yes, that is clever! I think I've done something like that twice but each time it was to rescue buildings. I never would have thought of it as a way to raise a door height.
If I've got the idea right, the idea is to run a beam supported by posts underneath the rafters and wedge the beam against the rafters with posts to the ground. In my cases, the buildings were in such bad shape or so poorly constructed to begin with that the rafters were not level.
My problem was how to get all the rafters in contact with the beam so they all transfer about the same load to the beam. I suppose that custom-cutting notches at the rafter angle into the beam would be ideal but there'd be a lot of work in that beam. I ended up placing the beam far enough below the rafters that I could cut custom length stubs to go between the rafters and beam. I didn't do it but gusset plates on the stubs would improve the design. To raise a door, that approach would mean the beam would have to come further into the garage, which might be desirable. Ideally, it's level across the rafter bottoms and ripping the edge of the beam to the right angle would do the trick.
Another problem I faced in my last rescue was how to keep the beam square on top of the posts and the posts in plumb. I suppose there is building hardware that's designed for the task. Not being an engineer I was never sure how much side force hardware would have to withstand and I probably over-designed it with tie-beams, tresses, cross-bracing and fillets. I have no idea what an engineer would say about my design.
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Increasing door height to fit tractor
Hi Murf. Happy you're back posting!
Your description seems to be pretty much what I did. I'm happy enough that my uneducated sense of what should be done turns out to be somewhat conventional. I toe-nailed in the wedges but hangers and gusset plates (plywood strips) would be better. Even I have some interest in brevity so I'll restrain myself from describing the details, but here might be some interest in rescuing buildings so I will go on a length to outline what I did. Maybe there are better ways.
My last effort was on a typical unequal wall height shed--nothing was holding the tops of the loaded walls together except the rafters. I installed cleats level and at the same height on each loaded wall and then toe-nailed 2x4 tie beams from wall to wall to give me level tie-beams directly below each rafter. I put double 2x8 beams along the length of the shed across the top of the beam (to save headroom). Posts from the tie-beams to the rafters were used on the high rafter side of the beam and cross braced back to the beam. Only cross braces were used on the low side. The cross-bracing wedges the beam to a vertical. Wedges between the beam and rafters were cut a bit over-length, banged in and toe-nailed. My version of remedial roof work was cutting the shorter posts and wedges more over-length than the shorter ones. I toe-nailed the tie beams to the bottom of the beam reasoning that load from the posts to the tie-beams would still transfer to the beams through the nails.
I put jack posts under the beam and jacked it up (keeping the beam level) until there was considerable load on the beam. Finally, I cut 8x8 posts to measured length and installed them plumb under the beam and removed the jack posts. Maybe the design could have been from a more educated perspective, but the shed has been through four seasons of snow-load now and hasn't budged. The main idea of the design was to build a true level and plumb support structure inside the shed and connect it to the structure that is neither level nor plumb.
I do see pro work around here that uses notched beams. There may be some advantage to notches. Over-width timber is used to allow for the notches.
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Increasing door height to fit tractor
Yep, I chuckled when I read Craig's comment. It's easy to get so focused on solving a problem that's presented that alternatives which make the problem irrelevant get missed.
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